A dryliner fixing plasterboard to a timber stud wall with a collated auto-feed drywall screw gun, the collated screw strip feeding into the gun.

Collated drywall screws: thread, length and which to buy

Drywall screws are 3.5mm bugle-head screws for fixing plasterboard, and two things decide which you need: thread and length. Coarse thread grips timber studs; fine thread bites metal studs (and still drives timber). Length is the board thickness plus about 25mm into the stud, so 35mm for a single 12.5mm board, 45mm for 15mm or a double layer, 50 to 55mm for thicker build-ups. Collated screws load into an auto-feed screw gun for fast boarding; loose screws suit small jobs and patches. All are interior, dry-use screws.

What is a collated drywall screw, and how is it different from loose?

The screw is the same; the difference is how it is fed to the gun. Collated screws come joined in plastic strips that load into a collated (auto-feed) screw gun, so you drive one after another without stopping to pick up a screw, far faster over a whole room or house. Loose screws are individual, driven with an ordinary screwdriver or drill, which suits patches, small jobs and awkward spots. Our collated drywall screws come in boxes of 1,000 (and a 10,000 pack), and the loose ones in boxes of 1,000.

Coarse thread or fine thread: which do you need?

This is the one people get wrong, and it is the most important choice. It is about what you are fixing into:

  • Coarse thread for timber studs. The deep, aggressive thread bites into a timber stud or batten and pulls the board in tight. This is the everyday drylining screw.
  • Fine thread for metal studs. Fine thread self-taps into light-gauge steel stud or track, where a coarse thread would just spin and never grip. Fine thread also drives into timber, so it is the safe choice if a job mixes both.

Get this wrong on a metal-stud partition and the coarse screws spin without holding. Match the thread to the frame.

Coarse-thread drywall screws grip timber studs; fine-thread drywall screws bite metal studs. Fine thread also works in timber.
Coarse thread for timber studs, fine thread for metal studs. Fine also drives timber, so it covers a mixed job.

What length drywall screw for each board thickness?

The rule is simple: the screw goes through the board and at least about 25mm into the stud. Match the length to your board build-up:

Board Screw length Typical use
Single 12.5mm 35mm Standard single-layer walls and ceilings
Single 15mm 42 to 45mm Fire or acoustic board, single layer
Double 12.5mm (25mm) 45mm Two-layer walls and ceilings
Thick build-up / 2 x 15mm / board on batten 50 to 55mm Heavy fire and acoustic build-ups

35mm is the workhorse for a single 12.5mm board and by far the most-used size. Step up as the board gets thicker or you double up. Too short and it will not hold in the stud; too long is just wasteful and can hit services.

Cross-section of a drywall screw through plasterboard into a stud, with at least 25mm of thread in the stud, and a length ladder from 35mm for single board up to 55mm for thick build-ups.
Length equals the board thickness plus about 25mm into the stud: 35mm single, 45mm double or 15mm, 50 to 55mm thick.

What is a bugle head, and why does it matter?

Drywall screws have a bugle head, a smooth trumpet-shaped flare under the head that lets the screw self-countersink just below the board paper without tearing it. That torn-paper detail matters: a screw that rips or over-sinks the paper has no hold and shows through the finish. Drive it so the head sits a fraction below the surface, snug but not buried. A collated gun with a depth stop does this for you; on a drill, ease off as it seats.

How far apart do drywall screws go?

Standard spacing is about 300mm in the field and 200mm around board edges, on both walls and ceilings, keeping screws about 10 to 13mm in from cut edges so you do not crumble them. Ceilings and fire or acoustic specs often call for closer centres, so follow the board manufacturer's fixing pattern where one is specified. Even, correctly-sunk screws are what stop a board sagging or cracking at the joints later.

Collated or loose: which should you buy?

  • Collated if you are boarding whole rooms or houses and have (or will hire) a collated screw gun. The speed and the saved hand strain pay for themselves fast. Boxes of 1,000, or 10,000 for a big run. The SAMAC 35mm collated coarse box of 1,000 is around £10.50, near enough a penny a screw.
  • Loose for patches, small jobs, repairs and anywhere a gun cannot reach. Boxes of 1,000 from around £7. Keep a box of coarse and a box of fine on the van and you are covered for timber or metal.

See the full drywall screws range for every size.

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Coarse thread into a metal stud. It spins and never grips. Fine thread for steel.
  • Over-driving through the paper. Tear the paper face and the screw has no hold and shows through the skim. Set it just below flush.
  • Wrong length. Too short does not bite the stud; match length to board thickness plus about 25mm.
  • Using them outside. Black phosphate drywall screws are for interior, dry work only, they will rust in a damp or exterior spot.
  • Screwing too close to the edge. Keep about 10 to 13mm in from cut edges so the board does not crumble around the screw.

The short version

Drywall screws are 3.5mm bugle-head screws: coarse thread for timber studs, fine thread for metal. Length is board thickness plus about 25mm into the stud, 35mm for single 12.5mm board, 45mm for 15mm or double, 50 to 55mm for thick build-ups. Collated into a gun for whole rooms, loose for patches, and interior use only. Browse collated and drywall screws, or call the counter if you are not sure.


By Steve, Builders Hardware Direct. Steve runs the BHD trade counter and has spent years supplying drywall screws, boards and fixings to dryliners and plasterers across South Wales. Not sure on thread or length? Call the counter on 01269 267030 or order online for fast UK delivery.

Back to blog